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Churros, Finally

We walked about 12 blocks in pouring rain to get there. It was the last thing we did before we left and we didn’t even have time for it. I pictured us running for the plane, sugar and cinnamon still on our chins, bellies full of hot chocolate, still slipping around in my rain-soaked flip […]

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Zefiro, Restaurant in Training

When I originally reached out via email to Oscar, a brother of a friend of a friend, I had heard that he used to run a culinary school in Mexico City and I asked if he would mind giving us a tour sometime during our trip. Instead, he insisted on meeting us for coffee on […]

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A Night at the 49th Best Restaurant in the World, Pujol

Imagine for a minute, Pujol without the food. White linen tablecloths, dark walls, gleaming wine glasses, men in suits with gray hair, men in suits with their wives, mirrors, leather booths. I’m a serious and refined place, in case you dared to think differently, says the serif font on the awning. In all senses of […]

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Pozole in DF

One of my favorite Mexican dishes is pozole, a moderately spicy soup made with hominy, usually with pork or chicken (best made with pig head) topped with shredded lettuce, radishes, onions, and oregano, and scooped up with tostadas. Sometimes red, sometimes green (and sometimes white I just learned) this soup is always my go-to comfort […]

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Classic Mexico City Restaurants

Halfway through our trip someone in Oaxaca asked me if I had any recommendations for restaurants in Mexico. “Like, nice restaurants?” I asked. It was only then that I realized we hadn’t been to any formal restaurants in Mexico City. So consumed with hitting market stalls, filling our late night taco cravings, and enjoying cheap […]

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Slow Food in Mexico: Los Danzantes

“People are starting to get it here, ” says chef Miguel Jimenez. “Sometimes they think slow food means their food is going to come out slowly, but they’re starting to understand that it’s about appreciating the diversity around us.” He’s come over to chat with us at our table after we told our waiter that […]

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24 hours in Veracruz

The city of Veracruz is the kind of raggedy place that makes you want to find an old man in a white linen suit, his bartender, and a veteran jarana player at a bar so that they can invite you in for a shot of rum and tell you about the port’s glory days. For […]

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Eat like a local at El Milenario

While most people go to Santa Maria del Tule, a town just outside of Oaxaca city, to see El Tule, a giant cypress tree described by Wikipedia as the “stoutest tree trunk in the world”, we go to eat at El Milenario. This is a restaurant that’s full of families on market day, where blue […]

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About eating bugs

It’s hard to avoid eating insects here. Today we were having quesadillas with squash blossoms and a little green worm fell out of Jenny’s tortilla and onto her plate. We don’t think it was supposed to be part of the dish, but you never know. Later the waiter told us that there were gusanos de […]

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El Pochote, organic market in Oaxaca

This has been our favorite market so far. Partly because it’s small enough to try every food stall, but with enough diversity to make you feel like you’re at an organic food festival. Italian pastries and Korean noodle bowls sit side by side. Tortillas are filled with squash blossoms and bean flowers. Take your pick […]

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